18TH CENTURY SUMPTUARY LAWS
– Textile materials and luxurious Garments in Sweden

In Sweden, circulars were printed at regular intervals, either due to new restrictions or the easing of some legislation. Restricting the sumptuous consumption of silk fabrics and other luxury textile materials was an essential aim of these small prints. This is a subject that will be looked at more closely in this essay via a general presentation of such decrees together with a complete transcription – in an English translation – of the sumptuary law of 1770, where several sections included comments on clothing, fashion and extravagant textile materials for various uses. This was a revised version of the even more elaborate regulation of 1766. How strictly those laws were adhered to in a growing consumer society is difficult to say for sure, but any prohibited use or manufacturing could cost a great deal, fines which had to be paid to the State, parish church or the informer after various regulations, which must have had the intended effect.

Sumptuary laws were printed from 1575 to the final decade of the 18th century in Sweden – which set out strict rules and limits for how people of different societal positions were to dress, among other matters. The law of the year 1770 became short-lived; however, due to that, Gustaf III (1746-1792) revoked all sumptuary regulations when he became king in the following year, and a new law came into place the first two years after he died in 1794. (Title page from a Swedish Decree of Luxury in 1770. Kongl. Maj:ts Förnyade Nådige Förordning, emot Yppighet och Öfwerflöd…).

Overall, some of the main aims for the country’s mercantile economy in the mid-18th century were to help the start-up of more manufacturing, which could result in improved conditions for the country and its inhabitants. When it regarded wool and woollen cloths, for instance, the leaders in society did everything to reward, stimulate, augment the sales potential and generally simplify the domestic wool processing at all levels via edicts (among them Kongl. Commerce-Collegii 1757 and the Manufactur-Contoir of the Four Estates of the Realm), and while sumptuary laws were in force on clothing, the interest in foreign textiles was still great. A total ban on imports of textile materials of finer sorts was therefore introduced in November 1756, and that covered not only costly silks but included even finer woollen fabrics and wool yarn, which for a long time had traditionally been imported from a number of European countries. In order to manage the production of delicate woollen articles in the country, a brief regulation was printed the same year, Kongl. Maj:ts Förbud, Emot Spanske Fårs och Asiatiska Getters utförsel utur Riket (His Majesty’s Ban on the export of Spanish Sheep and Asiatic Goats from the Realm), signed by Adolph Friedrich, to ensure that those wool-producing animals, so vital for the country, would be able to ‘contribute to the wealth and strength of the Realm’. The restrictions were intended to improve the potential of the domestic manufacturers, but thanks to Sweden’s long coastlines, the bans opened up new possibilities for smugglers instead. Not only because there was a need for more woollen yarn and cloth in the land, as that could be satisfactorily supplied due to the extensive weaving, but chiefly because the goods that were smuggled in could be sold more cheaply or were of more desirable designs or qualities than the products manufactured in Sweden. The illegal trade was well known, though to what extent was unknown.

The sumptuary laws and restrictions surrounding silk were particularly tricky issues as people of influence created bans, which, in part, affected themselves. This 1760s view of Ulriksdal Palace and its representative garden – close to Stockholm – is an enlightening contemporary depiction of wealth, Royalty and aristocracy in Sweden during this time. Even if the groups of walking individuals are visible at a distance only, ordinary fashions of the day are discernible and interestingly, luxurious trains on dresses or plumes on hats are impossible to detect – whilst the use of such garment details had strict rules during this decade. Oil on canvas by the artist Johan Sevenbom (1721-1784). (Courtesy: National Museum, Stockholm, Sweden. No: NMGrh 837).

‘Old Woman’ in 1768 by the Swedish artist Per Krafft the Elder (1724-1793). This contemporary oil on canvas is a representative depiction of an older woman’s modest way of dress within the rules for a non-aristocratic female individual. However, she was clearly of a well-to-do family who could afford to be portrayed, equally as her gown was of a fine brown plain silk quality, added with linen or cotton whitework embroidery, plain chemise sleeves, a matching cap and a pinned modesty piece of checked fabric. The open book, magnifying glass in her hand and ongoing knitting alike demonstrate some of her daily tasks. (Courtesy: National Museum, Stockholm, Sweden. No: NM 1709).

“Moderation” within each and everyone’s means, according to status, was an important concept overall. Those laws reached their peak of severity and extent in 1766 with Kongl. Maj:ts Förnyade Nådige Förordning Emot Yppighet och Öfwerflöd (His Majesty’s Renewed Gracious Directive against Luxuriance and Superfluity) which not only wanted to minimise the use of satin, silk, lace and luxury accessories of various kinds among the commoners but also to limit the quantity of cloth used for unnecessary ostentation among the ladies of the aristocracy, pointing out for example that ‘For the prevention of a harmful luxuriance in Ladies’ costumes, all trains on Ladies’ costumes of whatever kind are forbidden as from the 1 January 1767…’ 

Every detail of the directions against luxuriance and superfluity in the year 1770 can be studied word for word in the transcription below – a transcription made by the author of this essay from the Swedish 4-page small print. This is the very first time this sumptuary law, printed in Stockholm in 1770, to my knowledge, has been presented in a complete English translation.

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[Page 1]

His Majesty’s Renewed Gracious Directive against Luxuriance and Superfluity 

Given in the Advice-Chamber in Stockholm on 15th March in 1770.

Cum Gratia & Privilegio S:æ R:æ Maj:tis.

Stockholm

Printed in the Royal Printing-works

[Page 2]

Adolph Friedrich with Divine Right, Swedish, Göthes and Wendes King, etc. Heir to Norway and Duke of Schleswig Holstein, etc.

To make publicly known that We of the National State, at the previous Parliamentary resolution, handed in a humble Writing to Us, dated the 30th January this year, regarding some imports as well as use and consumption of prohibited foreign Goods, which has given Us further reason to scrutinise Our earlier humble recommendation, from a previous Parliamentary resolution, against Luxuriance and Superfluity which was legislated on the 26th June in 1766, additionally with further Explanation on the following 11th December. And inasmuch as the import and use of prohibited Wares and Articles sometimes are such, from which consumption the Nation seem not to be able to hinder, resulting in that few are punished, due to that it without difficulty can be practised in secrecy; whilst others emanate from certain Fashions of Manner of Living or Costumes, all sorts of examples have been highlighted, which are not ruled by Decrees, if they are not adjusted, also risk to hinder the Industry’s promotion and Free Art’s introduction in the Kingdom, and practising of legal and necessary Occupations, which are suited for certain ages and several circumstances; others may once more put a burden on the Foreigners, who instead, preferably in a sparsely populated Country [like Sweden], Foreigners should be encouraged to immigration, and other decrees likewise make disagreeable differences between Persons of equal conditions and circumstances etc; so We have, in certain parts of the affected Decrees, found it necessary to make some adjustment, in particular, regarding how the detrimental Superfluity effect the Kingdom and in reality are linked to the import of such Foreign Goods, burdening the Trade-Balance, and which are not possible to keep out, and also have that disadvantage to ruin Good Traditions. In such a respect, We have therefore felt called upon to make changes to the published Decrees against Luxuriance and Superfluity, and herewith also withdraw some decrees, which are not in line with what We henceforth in the following motto have been regulated and decreed, namely: 

• 1st. | All import and use of Arrack, likewise of Punch, both the one which is made of Arrack and other artificial sorts, like of French schnapps and Tamarind or of Rum; and all Wines, are prohibited, White and Red French exempted, which are sold under the names of Vin de Grave, Portuguese and Rhein Wine. They who import some of these prohibited Wares to the Kingdom, either to be sold for Wholesale or Retail Business, shall be due for the Fine, which is stated for the depression of Fraud, or hereafter if fixed in linked Regulations, and they who are found to use or consume some of these prohibited Wares, the first time will pay a Fine of One Hundred Rixdollar Silver, and then twice that for every time that he offends against this.

[Page 3]

• 2nd. | All Desserts are also prohibited, like for the last-mentioned Fine, exempt are those which are prepared from domestic Fruits.
• 3rd. | All use of Tobacco is prohibited for everyone who has not had one’s 21st birthday, with Three Rixdollar Silver in Fine, to be shared in three parts between the Parish Church, the Poor and the Informer; however, Horsemen, Dragoons, Soldiers and County Boatsmen, as well as Skippers, Seamen, Fishermen, Pilots, Miners and Foundry Workers without consideration of the age of minority, are all exempt. 
• 4th. | All Male Persons, in general, are forbidden at a Penalty of one Hundred Rixdollar Silver, the concern of the informer alone, to wear Silk Velvet and Silk fabrics in Clothing, Lining, by which is meant Coats, Frock-coats, so-called Surcoats, Jackets and Waistcoats; Likewise forbidden at the same Fine are all Galloons and Embroidery in Gold, Silver, Silk or any other kind, except for what officers and the parading Burghers of the town have the right to wear on their Hats and Caps; Also forbidden for Male Persons at the same Fine are Lace and Mountings on Canvas for Cuffs. Shoulder Braid and Trimmings on Livery, Half and Full Silks are forbidden at a Fine of Fifty Rixdollar Silver, excepting the State Livery of the Gentlemen of the Council of the Realm; and the Tailor who makes anything of what is herein forbidden shall be fined One Hundred Rixdollar Silver, the confiscated garment even allotted to the Informer. 
• 5th.|When it concerns Yeomen- and Farmers of the Country People, their Wives, Children, Servant Maids, in the Towns as well as in the Countryside, Horsemen, Dragoons, Soldiers, Boatsmen, Criminals and their Equals’ Wives, Widows and Children, may stay in that Costume, which is commonly used in every Province, as long that it is not contrary to what is established in this Decree.

The fourth page of the Swedish Decree of Luxury in 1770 included regulations of half-silk fabric, curtains, silk fringes, plumes on hats and much more. See the full translation below. (From: Kongl. Maj:ts Förnyade Nådige Förordning, emot Yppighet och Öfwerflöd…). 


[page 4]

• 6th.| It is also in general prohibited to manufacture Beds, Sofas, Chairs, Curtains or other Household utensils and Furniture with new Silk- and Half-silk Fabrics, just as with that same to cover Walls, Wagons, Chaises, Sledges, Saddles, Bridles, Reins, Uniforms and Pistol-Coats, and for that all of this to use Silver-Fringes, Cords, Ribbons or anything made of Silk, when using a Fine of One Hundred Rixdollar Silver and confiscation of the Goods, the Informer’s own business, exempt are, however, use of the Officers and Burghers Riding Equipage during Parades, which are included in their Work.
• 7th.| For all Subjects of the Realm, it is henceforth prohibited to keep Hussars and Assistants [dressed in velvet clothes and gold or silver braids], or other Servants in that kind of Costume when using a Fine of One Thousand Rixdollar Silver, the Informer’s own business.
• 8th.| Coffins of Oak and other costly varieties of tree, together with all expensive and magnificent Fittings on Coffins, Handles of tinned Iron-Sheet which earlier was not included, will henceforth be totally prohibited, with One Hundred Rixdollar Silver Fine to the one who makes them: All costly Shrouding and all sort of Decorations on the day of the Funeral or after are likewise prohibited, also at Home like elsewhere, in a way as the Royal Decree of the 8th Nov. in 1731, § 11 concerning this matter regulates.
• 9th.| All Hat-Plumes will henceforth be prohibited to use and consume, with Two Hundred Rixdollar Silver Fine, the Informer’s own business: Costumes of an Order or Military division are, however, not included. To all, whom it may concern to be obeyed and complied to. Moreover, We have signed this with our Own Hands, and Our Royal Seal has been confirmed. Stockholm in the Advice Chamber on the 15th of March in 1770.

Adolph Friedrich 

(L.S.) [locus sigilli, i.e. location of the seal]

P.G. Ehrencrona.

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Sources:

• Hansen, Viveka, Textilia Linnaeana: Global 18th Century Traditions & Trade, London 2017.
• Kong. Maj:ts Förbud, Emot Spanske Fårs och Asiatiska Getters utförsel utur Riket…, Stockholm 1756.
• Kong. Maj:ts Förnyade Nådige Förordning, emot Yppighet och Öfwerflöd, Stockholm 1770.
• Kong. Maj:ts Nådige Förordning, Emot Yppighet och Öfwerflöd, Stockholm 1766.
• Kongl. Maj:ts och Riksens Commerce-Collegii Kungörelse, Angående The til Inrikes Ull-Handelens befrämjande…, Stockholm 1757.