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Promoting Natural & Cultural History
There was no shortage of interest from the powers of state in Sweden to improve and resuscitate the popularity of hemp cultivation. His Majesty’s’ edicts in 1737 and commands in 1764, were published in print in order to encourage such cultivation. The latter describes, for instance, the relationship between the areas of usage of flax and hemp in an informative manner: ‘Thus, the two are equally useful and indispensable, albeit for different usages, in that Hemp ought to be used for sail cloth, cordage, rope, string, fishing-tackle, shoe-thread, and more such like, which are used either in water or exposed to force and wear and tear; whereas Flax takes preference in all fine work, such as fine linen, thread, lace etc...’ In travel journals written by the naturalist Carl Linnaeus and some of his apostles, the fibres of fishing nets and lines were also repeatedly noted and at rare occasions that the nets could be dyed red or brown. A selection of illustrations will give further glimpses into this subject, which over centuries have been deeply intertwined with the history of useful textile raw materials.
During Carl Linnaeus’ visit to Malmö on the Skåne Journey (16 June 1749) it was not the knotting or tying itself that were observed, but a discussion which took place on how the nets should best be washed. ‘Yarn or net could, so some thought, be washed without soft soap and salt and instantly become as clean as ever, if only it was soaked for 8 days and then pounded with a washboard, which had many grooves, and again washed.’ Those nets were most probably intended for the herring fishing. Furthermore, in three other of his publications, notes were made about the tradition to dye nets. Alder bark being described in Flora Oeconomica in 1737 as follows: ‘mixed with filings [it] gives a brown-red colour, with which fishermen in Norrland dye their nets’. Whilst from his Öland and Gotland Journey in 1741 it was registered that fishing nets were dyed red with birch bark (Betula), boiled in lye from hazel ashes.
The Linnaeus’ apostle Pehr Kalm (1716-1779) made some additional observations of the growing of hemp as well as dying of fishing nets on his voyage towards England and the North American colonies. Having set out on his journey in October 1747, Kalm had been able already after some two months to record facts about flax and hemp from Grimstad in Norway. There were extensive cultivations of both plants there, and they flourished to such an extent that the peasants hardly ever needed to buy raw material from beyond their close neighbourhood. On 23 January in 1748 between Grimstad and Kristiansand along the Norwegian coast he noted:
Another evidence for material used in such nets was registered in his travel journal, while staying in Pennsylvania, when Kalm noticed a plant called Apocynum cannabinum. This fibre is somewhat coarser in quality than flax – more like hemp – but was dressed, spun and woven into the coarse fabric in the same way. Interestingly, he also noted on 29 September in 1748 that the native Americans had formerly from that plant made pouches, fishing-nets, fishing-lines, etc. for many centuries before the arrival of the Europeans. Locally available raw materials were important along the North American coast just as in other parts of the world when it regarded everyday objects like nets and line for fishing, which had to be renewed due to constant wear and tear.
In another part of the world, the former Linnaeus’ student Daniel Solander (1733-1782) took part in James Cook’s (1728-1779) first voyage 1768-71. During the continued sailing around the Society Islands – 17 July and 14 August 1769 – the accompanying artist Sydney Parkinson (c. 1745-1771) made notes on the practical properties of many plants on the island of Huahine in his journal, some of which were, or could be, useful for textile purposes. The most important observation was the paper mulberry tree, Morus papyrifera. Another four plants were also studied – including hibiscus species, Phaseolus amoenus and Urtica argentea – from which the local people extracted threads/fibres for nets and fishing lines. There appears to have been a degree of confusion among the voyagers as to which plant was used for the production of textiles when arriving in New Zealand though, but based on historical facts, it is possible to state that it was New Zealand flax (Phormium tenax). That fibre was, besides being useful for clothing, described as practical for all kinds of thread, string and fishing lines among the islanders in the journals by Parkinson as well as the botanist Joseph Banks (1743-1820). Along the Australian coast in 1770, Banks also wrote a lengthy description of the country’s climate, flora, fauna, coastline, hilliness and the way of life of the Aboriginal people. There he pointed out, from his European perspective, that the inhabitants wore not a single thread on their bodies, nor appeared to have any need of, or interest in, owning clothes. A kind of plaited sack for storing things was examined, however, which was described as being ‘something between netting and knitting’. The people must, in other words, have known how to twine thread, presumably of bast/raffia material to have been able to plait such sacks. Those were usually carried on people’s backs and holding their belongings such as arrow heads, fishing hooks and lines, shells and paint for adorning themselves.
During the second circumnavigation several places were revisited where James Cook had been well received on his first voyage, when Daniel Solander and Joseph Banks had been the accompanying botanists. This time it was Johann Reinhold Forster (1729-1798) and his son George Forster (1754-1794) who together with the former Linnaeus’ student Anders Sparrman (1748-1820) botanised, carried out zoological investigations and collected ethnographic objects. Collecting appreciable quantities of ethnographic curiosities appeared to be more of a priority this time, as most of the plants had already been “discovered” during the previous voyage. One of the larger ethnographic collections, Forster’s Collection, is to be found today in Göttingen and is an example of a very rich accumulation of artefacts transported back to Europe. Besides, a not inconsiderable part of the ethnographic objects were of a textile nature, and some artefacts to do with the raw materials and the manufacture of textiles are used here as examples. From the Society Islands are still preserved: fishing nets made from Hibiscus tiliaceus, rope from coconut fibre, ribbons plaited from coconut, grass and flax-like fibres and a spindle. From New Zealand the collection listed samples of New Zealand flax and also exemplars of such fibre before retting. Additionally, Anders Sparrman made a note in his travel journal about fishing nets from New Caledonia on September 1774: ‘Their fishing is done with hooks, harpoons or fine and coarse nets, even very coarse ones. The latter is made for capturing turtles.’
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